Céret is a small town with an outsized art history: Picasso, Braque and Gris all worked here, and it has kept a taste for the modern that outlasted them. A good place to end a week that had otherwise been all fortresses and cathedrals.
First the Catalan striped cloth, bolts of it stacked by pattern, the local weave that has clothed this border country for generations. Pure colour and rhythm, and a reminder that design down here did not stop with the medieval.
Then a contemporary gallery: pale felt cylinders standing like drums under the skylights, a curved wall of glass block with a woven piece glowing beyond it. Dark rooms again, ISO wide open, but a fitting last note. The Roussillon does now as well as it does then.