The last of the light on the Côte Vermeille, and after a week of flat grey the coast finally gave something back. First the harbour at Port-Vendres, the one proper working port along here, its pastel quay lit soft as the day let go.

Then, later than I expected, a real sunset. The cloud that had sat on this coast all week lifted just enough at the horizon for the sun to slide under it, pink and orange over a quiet cove, the sea going dark beneath. Ten minutes, maybe less.

You wait a whole trip for a sky like that. Worth staying out for.