Perpignan gives you a lot at once. In one afternoon I went from a spray-painted Dali propped against a wall, to the Campo Santo, to a Maillol bronze sitting quietly in a courtyard, and they somehow all belong to the same city.

The Campo Santo is the surprise: one of the largest medieval cloister-cemeteries in France, a huge open square ringed by a continuous run of white marble Gothic arches, with the town's rooftops just showing over the wall. It is austere and enormous and almost empty, which is most of its effect.

Maillol was a local, born just down the coast, and his seated bronze in the town-hall courtyard is the town claiming him back. Three registers of the same place: the irreverent, the sacred, the classical.