Inside, the palace runs from the very large to the very small. The great hall is a barn of a room, all timber roof and stepped brick arches, empty now so the scale hits you straight away. It swallowed the light, ISO 12800 to hold the roof, and it was worth it.
Then the details, which are half of why a place like this repays a slow visit. A window cut so deep into the wall that it frames the snow on Canigou like a picture hung across the plain. A floor of terracotta and green tile worn smooth by six centuries of feet. A loggia ceiling painted in red and green that still holds its colour.
Big rooms are easy to admire and hard to photograph. Often it is the floor, or the window, that gives you the frame.