The further into Salses you go, the less light there is, by design. Thick walls and few openings kept the summer heat out and made the place defensible, and the result is room after room where you have to stand still a moment before your eyes catch up.

One tunnel was so dark I ended up at a thirteenth of a second, hand-held, ISO wide open, just to hold onto the one shaft of daylight at the far end. The vaulted chamber was kinder: a single barred window laid a stripe of warm light across the old plank floor, and that was the whole picture.

These are the frames I like best from the fort. Not the big keep in the sun, but the quiet interiors where the light is rationed and you take what the building gives you.